Behrouz and Lucky’s Overnight Yeasted Waffles

still life w waffles

These are Behrouz and Lucky’s famous overnight yeasted waffles. They’re best eaten with a side of crispy pepper bacon, hearty French butter, and not too much maple syrup…or better yet, a dollop of blackberry compote or brandied banana sauce. Add a pot of strong tea or coffee and a mix of Nico, Leonard Cohen, Marlene Dietrich, and Mark Eitzel for a luxurious Sunday morning.

About waffle irons; I bought mine on Etsy from a charming woman in Texas. It is vintage, chrome, circa 1960s and works great. I highly recommending buying an older used waffle iron. They’re attractive and made well.

Overnight Yeasted Cornmeal Waffles

The recipe is all over the internet, however I cribbed this from The Kitchn, but believe that Marion Cunningham may have been the original author. Use a very large mixing bowl to make this recipe as the batter will double in size as it rises. I use a giant metal bowl.

Night Before:
1/2 cup warm water
1 tablespoon active-dry yeast
1/2 cup melted butter (plain ole American butter is okay for this part)
2 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
3 cups all-purpose flour (you can substitute 1 cup of cornmeal flour or buckwheat flour for 1 cup of the all-purpose flour)

The Next Day:
2 large eggs, beaten
1/2 teaspoon baking soda

Combine the yeast and the water in a large mixing bowl and let stand for a few minutes. Stir to make sure the yeast dissolves into the water. Melt the butter over low heat. Combine the butter with the milk, salt, and sugar (if using). Test with your finger to make sure the mixture has cooled to lukewarm, then stir it into the dissolved yeast mixture. Add the flours and stir until a thick, shaggy dough is formed and there is no more visible flour.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit on the counter overnight. The batter will double or triple in bulk as it rises. Do not try to let it rise in the refrigerator!

The next morning, beat the eggs together and add them to the batter along with the baking soda. Using a whisk or hand blender, beat the eggs and baking soda into the batter until completely combined.

Make the waffles at the table. They are done once the steam stops rising. remove from iron, slather with French butter and maple syrup or compote. Eat!

Waffles are best if served immediately. You can re-heat them in the toaster, but they don’t have the same panache. Leftover waffles can also be frozen for up to 3 months and toasted straight out of the freezer.

About Avery Cassell

Avery Cassell is a queer butch San Francisco writer, poet, cartoonist, and artist who grew up in Iran.
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